The poor weather in the UK which shut down Heathrow for a couple of days means that rather than shooting in Botswana, we are catching up on all sorts of (shitty) stuff in London. Our Virgin flight to Joburg should have left on Monday night, but was cancelled. We are booked for Friday night, but who knows? In BAA we do not trust.
This made us both reflect that it is becoming increasingly impossible to take international travel for granted as all too often something messes up the best made plans. Just looking back at problems we have had with some of our trips...
1. In March to celebrate Adam's 50th, we had booked a recce to attend the Holi festival in Rajasthan. We turned up at the Virgin check-in desk at Heathrow only to be told that Julie's multi entry visa had ceased to be a multi entry on account of anti-terrorism measures and she could not fly. No phone calls to the Indian embassy (Adam spoke to the security guard), pleadings with Virgin or anyone else changed that so Adam flew on his own.
2. On another trip Adam was out in Iraq trying to get back to London to meet up with Julie before heading down to Tanzania. A sandstorm shut down Baghdad for 24 hours and he missed all his connections and had lots of waiting in Jordan before arriving in Tanzania a few days late.
3. Last summer without any reason aside from a "technical fault" our Virgin flight to Joburg was delayed 12 hours ... lucky we had built in a 24 hour buffer before our connecting flight.
4. The BA strike 12 months ago gave us kittens. Lucky the strike ended a couple of days before we were due to travel to India. However again bad weather set in and we remember long lists of flights cancelled on the departure boards. Lindy flew in from the US to hook up with us and was not able to enter the terminal to meet up for hours. In the end fine, but lots of worry.
5. Passport theft in France meant Adam not being able to fly to the Congo on time for one of our Bonobo trips and a very fraught Christmas yo-yo-ing between London and Paris to get new passport, new visa, new flights.
6. Don't mention the Icelandic volcano this year!
So, what are the lessons?
A. Assume that for big trips something will go wrong. So build in some buffer at the start to ensure that if the international flight is late setting off, hopefully all is not lost.
B. Check visa conditions, not once but again and maybe again a week before you depart in case the government changes the rules.
C. There are many, many people with much bigger problems, so keep a sense of proportion.
As the great Chinese traveller, Lin Yutand, said "A good traveller is one who does not know where he is going to, and a perfect traveller does not know where he came from" and by Lewis Carroll (Adam's favorite) "If you do not know where you are going, any road will get you there".
Enjoy your own Christmas breaks and a wonderful 2011 for you all! Be safe, have fun, and despite all odds, keep traveling.
Julie and Adam
Perils and uncertainty of travel - 23 December 2010
New Ideas from Marrakech - 28 November 2011
Just back for a week or so from Marrakech where I caught up with travel professionals - suppliers - from all over the world. Some of the connections really were on the same wavelength as us: experience rich travel, not run of the mill stuff, and so exciting that it's worthy of trying to capture the moment photographically.
As a result I've come back with some fresh ideas, still requiring research but nevertheless some inspiring ideas to explore, recces to take in:
Australia - lots of ideas, mainly in the Northern Territory and Western Australia and South Australia. Still to be narrowed down...
India - there's no end to ideas here but some potentially interesting cultural and charitable combis.
Asia - still researching the perfect Snow Leopard trip but I think I'm getting closer!
Antarctica - aiming for Xmas 2012, another small vessel trip but different yet again to what we have done before.
Africa - safaris are getting so damned expensive if you want access to really good game. And we're always trying to get away from paying for luxurious accommodation and instead putting the 'luxury' into 'raw, barefoot, real bush and outstanding game interaction'. So some fresh suppliers for us to put to the test.
And Marrakech itself was a first for me. Not having much downtime at all, it was full on meetings, but I did mange to get down to the medina for a longgggg coffee break people watching, and I spent a couple of hours on an unrequested personally guided tour by a chap that introduced himself as Bob Marley. Bob was quite a character and he thankfully saved me from becoming completely lost in the maze of souks and with him as a 'minder' I had the confidence to shoot some of the big cat and zebra skins and dried chameleons which were unfortunately on display. Quite a place and next time it will be worth getting out of town for a bit of exploring as well. Marrakech seems a great place to go in Europe for a short haul cultural and photographic fix. Alas, not that much warmer than London at this time of year!
Julie
November 2011
Putting something back: 20 November 2010
This week I hosted a fundraising fashion show in conjunction with Amanda Thompson, the very talented designer behind Pussy Willow. I had asked Amanda back in July whether she would do a show with me to raise funds for the Pakistan flood victims and she very generously agreed. So we had an exciting evening of Autumn-Winter fashion, held at the B2 hotel, with pro models, music and catwalk.
The evening was a great success. Thankyou to everyone who attended, who donated online and who bid enthusiastically at the auction!
The floods hit Pakistan four months ago, back in July but of course they are so widespread that a third of Pakistan was under water, impacting 20 million people including three million kids under five years of age. Action Aid reckon it will take two years to make any real dent in restoring the crops, schools, businesses, bridges and roads etc. Water borne disease is an immediate problem, getting the kids back to school will take time and helping marginalised groups (HIV, minority religions, the very ill and isolated) is a priority of Action Aid who have had people on the ground doing good work in Pakistan in any case. We know our modest proceeds from the event will make a difference as Action Aid keep their overheads low and they put the funds immediately to good use. Sums as low as £30 can buy hygiene or food kits, £50 can get a household kit (mosquito net, torch, plastic sheets, mattress, gas cylinder). And they teach people how to protect themselves from future flood damage.
www.justgiving.com/calvertpercivalfloodrelief2010
Once again, a really big thankyou to everyone for your support. And thankyou to Adam for being ready with a lens....
Julie
November 2010
Canada; Bears, Whales and Wilderness - 10 October 2010
Well just come back from a trip to the Pacific coast of Canada. Trip report and more detailed notes to follow in a week or so, but this should give you a taste of what we saw. Having the opportunity to watch Bears at close range was very special, if only we could have had longer! Seeing Salmon return to their rivers, spawn and then taking their last heaving breaths really brought home the Salmon migration story. Mile after mile of Canadian wilderness - another very beautiful and special part of the world - also threatened by logging, fishing and oil accidents...
Julie and Adam
South Africa, The Day Just Gets Better: 5 Week Old Leopard Cub
Still in awe after seeing our fabulous Leopard sightings - see last Blog - we went to check out an area where a female Leopard had been seen, known to have given birth recently.... Too much to wish for really but we didn't have to look that long, not with our excellent tracker. We found her lying down trying to keep cool and she was near a rocky ledge so it was just possible her cub was under the ledge. Patience is a virtue - this little ball of dark spots came out, nuzzled Mum and alas they both went in under the ledge. We had to shoot into the darkness and through some ground level foliage but the cub was having a great time playing whilst Mum tried to sleep. Mum got fed up with the little one's antics and came outside again to a clearing. Yes! The cub was much more timid but he/she did come out and we managed to get some fleeting shots away whilst she played, suckled, went exploring back under the ledge. Fabulous, love South Africa!
Julie and Adam
August 2010
The Lion, the Mongoose, the Bushbuck and their Leopard - South Africa, August 2010
What an awesome day. We found a bushbuck kill hanging in the most unusual spot in a tree - it was half way down from one major branch and half way up from another major branch, but stuck curiously on a branchlet, too fine for any animal seemingly to have put it there! Presumably dropped from the higher branch and now abandoned?
Went off on our drive and pretty soon came across a small pride of female adult Lions with two cubs. From their flat stomachs we could tell they were hungry. Following them led back to the abandoned bushbuck carcass. The Lions looked up hungrily and amazingly, one of the adults climbed the tree, precariously, and gazed up longingly at the carcass. Spectacle Number 1! The cubs were running around on the ground excitedly. The female in the tree took a couple of swipes at the carcass, trying to dislodge it and nearly losing a couple of her lives at the same time. She came down and did try coming at it from another branch but she just wasn't nimble enough to balance herself and reach the carcass.
At this stage we noticed some movement way at the top of the tree, amongst the foliage. The Bushbuck's Leopard was still in the tree, presumably she'd scuttled up when she saw the Lions approaching.
These Lions slept the rest of the day and the next close by to the tree. The Leopard wasn't going anywhere!
Yet another day we passed by this kill. The Lions had gone and our Leopard was hanging around on the ground, mostly sleeping but occasionally getting up. We decided to hang out here all day. If she was staying with her carcass, we would too! Our Leopard chased off some Francolins who were being a bit noisy and probably giving her location away. An hour or so later a Mongoose came along, surveyed the trees nearby and plotted its course ingeniously toward the hanging carcass. Spectacle Number 2. 
Sixth sense or what, our Leopard was up, alert and racing to her tree. The Mongoose was off and our Leopard became intent on checking on her carcass. She upped the tree, only to drop and have a bit of a snooze directly under the carcass.
Not for that long though. She remained reasonably alert and without any warning she stood up, reached up with her paws outstretched, standing completely upright on her hind legs, sinking her claws into the carcass she demonstrated her powerful shoulder muscles and incredible balance. Our tracker said he had never seen anything like this before. We certainly hadn't. Spectacle Number 3. 
She chomped away, occasionally dropping back to all fours when she was tired but she gradually became more confident in her balance and probably more frustrated in not being able to reach the good bits, so she summoned her strength, stood up once more and to our amazement pulled the carcass down to her branch and in the same movement carried it up 30 feet or so to the safer, higher branch, positioned it properly, and got stuck in! Uber Spectacle Number 4. 
This was as exhilirating as a Wildebeest crossing in the Mara! This Leopard was Wonder Woman: still only a sub-adult and not as strong as the male Leopards we had been seeing, she was in great condition and had performed with incredible strength and agility, entertaining us for several hours.
Off then to see if we could find the Leopard with a five week old cub. You wouldn't think you could strike lucky again in the same day.....
South Africa slideshow - 22 August 2010
Here are a few more images from our recent safari in South Africa; eight days ... eight leopards! Enjoy
Julie and Adam
South Africa - 16 August 2010
Thanks to all our South African wildlife friends (Lee, Anton, Carla, Alan, Murray, Wendy et al) who have told us many times what amazing things you can see in this wonderfully diverse country. Today marks the last day of our recce trip, and we are sad to leave. More details later, but we really have seen some absolutely amazing wildlife. Highlights .... far too many to list but include:
1. Eight different Leopards in eight days .... including a very young cub, about 4 weeks old! Many viewings were for over an hour with lots of Leopards up trees with their kills. 
2. Really great time watching and photographing Elephants. Some drinking at pools, some rolling in mud and others stripping bark from trees. One 60 year old mother (or thereabouts) with probably her last calf. The mother has fallen behind the herd so quite poignant.
3. As always some really great Lions around. Quite tricky to find in the slightly denser bush than the Mara, but when we found them, like old friends!
4. The beauty of Africa and the bush remains enchanting. It is winter down here which means very cold mornings and a wonderful mid 20s by noon. So a mix of fleeces, scarves, woolly hats and hot water bottles first thing and bush shirts five hours later.
Keep looking at the blog as we will post some more shots, a slideshow or two and on the site a trip report. This really was one of our best safaris for really outstanding African wildlife, Leopard in particular.
Julie and Adam
Blackbirds in Bermondsey - 11 July 2010
As the spring turned to summer we noticed a pair of blackbirds flying into and out of our balcony with increased frequency. Early mornings and evenings they would appear with something in their beaks. Following the trail led us to a nest well hidden in one of our olive trees. It became quite noisy as the young ones started crying for food. This week the babies left the nest and have been hopping around the balcony with very anxious parents looking on and this morning one of the babies appeared amongst the hydrangeas in the courtyard to our surprise, four storeys below ... mother on hand looking on.
So this year has been more successful than last year when the eggs were stolen from the nest down in the courtyard, probably by a rat, maybe a fox. While not as dramatic as playing with Bonobos, watching the migration in Kenya or dancing in India at the Holi festival it is still very special and not bad at all for central London!
Julie and Adam
Elephant Parade London - 4 July 2010
If you have been in London over the past weeks, you will have seen some amazing painted Elephants all over the City and West End. These are there for a serious purpose; to raise awareness of the plight of Asian Elephants in the wild. The main charity The Elephant Parade is supporting is www.elephantfamily.org and you can find out more about father and son team's The Elephant Parade at www.elephantparade.com.
As well as raising awareness, the campaign concluded with a series of on-line and live auctions over the past week or so. Elephants are animals that we never grow tired of and yesterday we went along to support the charity.
It was a lovely day in London, the clouds were amazing, and it was slightly strange to see hundreds of bright elephants all lined up inside the grounds of the Chelsea Hospital.
Some were really bright and whacky, others ornate, yet again others taking their inspiration from nature itself.
And the detail on some was amazing!
One elephant stood out distinctively; it was made of a clever metal mesh and was stunning:
We both were surprised by the good weather (London can be great!!!) and the amazing designs and really got stuck in.
Anyway, the serious point of the afternoon was raising funds for the charity supporting the plight of the Asian elephant. A chap from Sotherby's did the auction and he really worked the room. The organisers, charity, sponsors, supporters and most importantly the Elephants should be very proud.
We did some bidding and spurred along by the real commitment and passion shown by The Elephant Family charity and The Elephant Parade organisation (and helped by a couple of glasses of wine) we were successful in that we are now the very proud owners of two elephants! We will post pictures of these when they arrive home but we are really pleased.
What a fabulous way to raise awareness and money for a really important cause.
Can you imagine a world without Elephants?
Julie and Adam
Hot Hot Hot - 22 May 2010
Some warm weather has arrived in London at last and it always feels warmer here than it is when the sun does finally come out. Where was the sun last week when we were touring the M25? More on that another time... So it's great to get the BBQ out for some al fresco dining and to get out the summer clothes and summer legs. London is a great City when the sun's shining and with changing weather patterns, this year it's been a long time in coming.
We hear the Masai Mara and Botswana are seriously wet currently, more so than usual. After bad drought some of the camps in the Mara have now experienced local washouts, and apparently the Delta in Botswana is phenomenally wet meaning the wildlife is concentrating in even smaller areas of dry land which is great news for the predators and anyone fortunate enough to be on safari this year. The vehicles in the Delta have snorkels so we have had some very exciting chases through water trying to get around in front of Lions hunting Buffalo, where the vehicle has been so submerged that water was up to our calves inside the vehicle. Our favourite guide in Botswana is good at pushing the boundaries for us but he is experienced enough to know when it really is too deep for a vehicle to get across. So he knows when to say No. Well most of the time anyway:) So we will have some of the benefits of a wet Delta at the end of the year when we are there.
Come to think of it, as much as water can be challenging on safari, on balance it typically adds to the adventure and with hindsight adds to the vividness of the chase/getting to the action. In the Congo or Central African Republic, getting in to see the Lowland Gorillas can mean trekking through thigh level water but with porters who are more accustomed to the conditions, they can make light of getting the camera gear in safely, and without the excitement of getting through the jungle streams, it just wouldn't be so much fun. But keeping camera gear dry is serious and if you ever need any help on what to use, we can tell you what works for us at least. 
We need to get the wet weather gear out for the cameras for our Canada trip in September as well. Our bear and whale watching live-aboard expedition up the north-west coast will be visiting some of the most scenic bits of Canada, and some of the wettest. Probably explains why it's so green! As Adam is always saying, 'there's no such thing as bad weather, only bad preparation'. So whereas ponchos are typically provided in safari vehicles, we will be needing full on waterproof jackets, pullover trousers and wellies for the wet landings for ourselves - thankfully it won't be as cold as Antarctica and we will all fit in one zodiac so there won't be lots of hanging around as is the way on large boats. For the camera gear, it will be a combination of large and small drybags - you can apparently have your gear floating in these in water and they'd be OK - not sure I will ever put this to the test though! And then the waterproof covering for the camera and lenses as well and I quite like the light showerproof covers as well so that even if it's not raining, just being in humid conditions it feels as if there's a bit of protection without the need for the more cumbersome full Monty covers. Spare plastic bags for putting things in, waterproof backpack etc etc.
So a bit of thoughtful pre-trip checking, shopping and packing is needed to avoid disastrous damage to gear. The closest we have ever come to this is Gorilla tracking in Uganda a number of years ago. It was a very wet year and one couple we met along the way had lost pretty much all of their camera and video gear to rain. It was our first trip there and we hadn't been warned about the possibility of torrential rain coming from nowhere so we nearly lost a camera as well. Thankfully it eventually dried although Adam spent the rest of the trip with the camera hanging out the window as we travelled, trying to dry it out, and looking through the viewfinder was impossible for a week or so, so he was shooting blind - and yes, you could see a difference in the shots!
Not sure what's going to keep us happy until September although there are those Elephants that have sprung up in London....
Sicily - 9 May 2010
Dear all
Sometimes the best things are not as far as 10,000 miles from Heathrow. For Easter this year we travelled to Sicily to see what it could offer for a short break. Something we had talked about for quite a few years. Wildlife was somewhat limited, although Adam did get up pretty close and personal with a fox. Very, very tame at the side of the road!
What was the overall impression that we had of Sicily? First the people really are very friendly. Whether it was the hotel staff, the men in the fish market, the taxi or coach drivers or the people running the many restaurants we visited. Secondly, Sicily does not suffer from the over development you see in the South of France. It remains very charming and somewhat low key. Thirdly, the wine, food and gelato are to die for! We both enjoyed all three ... in different quantities!
Volcanos are making the news at the moment and many of our friends have been caught out. Within an hour of Catania it is possible to trek to the top of Europe's most active volcano; Mount Etna. Some of the paths are not that obvious and we had to lead a group along the highest ridge to get the best photographs.
Finally, is Etna worth seeing; absolutely yes. An amazing natural wonder which is just an hour from the finest restaurants in Sicily.
Julie and Adam
New Trip: Holi and Elephant Festivals, Varanasi and Tigers in March 2011
Just a pre-announcement on our March 2011 trip to experience Holi and Varanasi combined with three days at Bandhavgarh tiger tracking. The dates are something like March 18-28, 2011 but the full itinerary will be up in the usual sections of this website during the course of the coming week. We hope you will join us on this specially planned Holi fun and Spring Colour festival, spiritual Varanasi and Bandhavgarh tiger safari combination. Please check out the full itinerary this week and let us know if you would like to go on the 'interested in coming' list.
Speaking of Spring, is it at last finding its way to London?!
We have two remaining spaces for our whales and bears trip sailing in British Columbia this September/October so if anyone's interested.... There is no single supplement on this trip but flights will become problematic with each passing week.
Have a great week this week.
Julie and Adam
Elephant and Holi festivals; Jaipur - 5 March
Well the first slideshow with some video. The video was taken in the City Palace at Jaipur. The King and Queen come out and sit down. A very large bonfire is lit in front of them. Suddenly about 100 men appear with torches to light from the bonfire. As soon as these are lit they RACE off shouting to the gate of the Palace where motorcycles are waiting which take them off to their districts where they light their local bonfires. Mad and exciting!
Adam
Godfather Part III - 3 March 2010
This feels a little like the third Godfather film. The first was groundbreaking and the second one of the best films ever made. For me, the Elephant Festival was like the first Godfather. Groundbreaking and great fun. Holi was like Godfather II. Absolutely amazing and a memory that will stay with me for life. The last 24 hours has been a little bit more quiet, but still provided what I really like about India; the chance to understand and photograph some of the local people.
My best "tash" of the trip goes to this gypsy. I am sure there were some small animals living in it.
The gypsies lived by the side of a motorway in tents made from sheets of plastic. The men generally worked on construction where they could and drifted to where the work was available. A tough life. Anyway, some of the people were really beautiful.
Another tough life are the shepherds. At this time of year they leave their homes in the dryer part of India and spend five months on the road with their sheep leaving behind their wives and children. They have a mule to carry their possessions and that is it. No TV, DVD players, lap-tops or any other possessions that many of us in the west believe we need. A tough life and all the shepherds I have met are a very proud bunch, as they should be.
They roam in groups of men with hundeds of sheep undr their control. When they need cash (for theirs is a cash economy) they can sell one of their sheep to make ends meet.
Another subject to study are turbans. As you can see from the photo above, the shepherds have a distinctive quite large floppy model. Where this gypsy has a much more tight look (and you can see his plastic tent behind).
Finally, the kids remain so positive, curious and good natured. 
I am sitting in Delhi airport reflecting on an amazing few days. Really sorry that Julie was not able to make it. Despite this, I threw myself into her challenge to make sure I captured some of what the Elephant festival and Holi was all about. I hope I managed some of it. I was also glad to get away from the city for the past 24 hours and spend time in the fields among the farmers and shepherds.
That it is from me. Again (and I am sure I am boring you by now) India is an amazing destination both for wildlife and shooting the most colourful people .. most of whom love having their photographs taken.
Finally, if you are feeling fed up with your job ... think of this lady who today was mixing fresh dung with the chaff from wheat to make dung cakes which are used as fuel in the open fires ....
Bye for now
Adam
Holi in Jaipur - 2 March 2010
OK, if there is one thing that we all must do at some stage in our lives ... it is coming to Jaipur for Holi. Holi is an Indian festival all about the changing seasons (like all Indian festivals). It represents the first flowering of new plants and hence is the colour festival. And when I say colour I mean COLOUR!
The tradition is that everyone greets each other in a different way. Rather than shake hands you rub dye into the face of your friend or a complete stranger and he or she does the same to you!
Sometimes the colours are bright
And sometimes black!
And it is a time of laughter, fun and not taking life too seriously
While Julie was not there, I could decide who to dance with
And all through the morning everyone is visiting friends, relatives and just being sociable
Photographically it is tricky. The kids have waterpistols and want to soak everybody. There is dust everywhere. And you are being grabbed all the time to have your face smeared!
Dust ... think what this does to your sensor if you do not seal your camera!
But what is fantastic is that there are so many photo opportunities whether it is the old or young!
What else can I say. Well I had soooooooo much fun and know just about anyone with any sense of humanity will really get more out of life just by coming.
Oh yes, did I mention I met the queen of Jaipur?
Julie and I are already planning to run a shutterspeed expedition here next year! It was that good. This is a pretty quick update while I am waiting to travel back to Delhi. What is absolutely true is that I have a big grin on my face! Life sometimes is exceptional.
Adam
Jaipur Elephant Festival - 28 February 2010
Well, hopeless for Virgin to turn Julie away. All the advice i received here in India is that if she had managed to get to Delhi, she would have been fine. We have usually been very happy with Virgin, just this once they did not behave as I would have expected. Anyway, a useful warning to all the seasoned travellers who come with us.
Well missing Julie, but managing to take a few photos. Jaipur at this time of year is amazing. It is about 30 degrees but with a dry heat ... perfect. The Elephant festival is the day before Holi. While I was a little concerned that the Elephant festival was just for tourists; it is really for the Indians. Amazing scenes with 95 Elephants parading around. Painted trunks, tails and toenails!
The guys riding the Elephants (and there are no Woman, aside from a token bride) are performers. As you can see, this one was throwing flowers in the air, riding an elephant and looking pretty cool. However the dancers were also very impressive with their skills.
Even the toes of some of the Elephants were painted. In this case a rose pink from Chanel
Why do I like India so much? Just about everyone likes having their photo taken. Combine that with the colour and food and it is a place that is hard to beat.
Finally, I will leave that to the Elephants ....
Adam