Heart of Darkness - Christmas Day 2007

I arrived in the Congo on Saturday evening and it is always incredibly humid! I certainly notice when I am shooting. Perspiration runs down my face and arms and the Bonobos take advantage of me when I stop to wipe my face; they get in quickly trying to snatch my sunglasses or yank at my shoelaces, or worse, have a go at my camera strap. I have learned to have the strap around my neck at all times although I daresay they are not fussed whether a camera comes with or without a neck. Their curiosity is no different to Chimpanzees and they are a lot of fun although I am not convinced they are always gentler. They do noticeably settle most disputes with sex so squabbles don't last long.

There are 62 Bonobos here and they live in three different groups, each group with its own keeper who knows them all by name and personality. I have seen all five babies. The groups are easy to get to, although there's one very short, steep hill to get up. No big deal even with the humidity and the camera gear.

Today was such a great morning - I spent all my time with one group who gave their all. There was one adult female who seems a bit aggressive and I am wary of her. She threw quite a lot of dirt at me, to the extent my camera was covered in it, and my face and arms caught a lot. She really caught me by surprise but I have clocked her now and am on guard. She then had a go at an adolescent Bonobo which had got a bit close to her baby. Bonobos have a really high pitched squeal and this adolescent squealed for the Congo, I have never heard anything like it. Ironically, it was the female's baby that made peace by handing over some fruit - and then some others provided some pretty fruity behaviour and harmony was restored.

I was also treated to seeing a couple of the Bonobos going into the water. There are a couple who apparently cross the river frequently. This was a treat although I was a bit too far away for good shots. To help me out, the keeper is going to get me out on the river in a boat, (no engine) which will be brilliant - I should be able to get closer to the crossings and also just get a different perspective.

Julie